So you're looking for a cookbook that offers up fabulous food--but not too many calories; dishes that are out of the ordinary--but not too time-consuming to prepare; meals that are delicious--but won't clog your arteries. Sounds like a tall order, but Jacques Pepin delivers the goods in Today's Gourmet, a companion volume to his top-rated weekly series on PBS. Pepin's approach is simple: cook with elegance, style, and zest, and take it easy on the fat, sodium, and calories. Though health is an important concern of Pepin's, he's no fanatic--he still uses butter, salt, and cream in small amounts when they're called for, and he believes that eating should be joyful, not fraught with denial or resentful obligation. As he says in his introduction, "In a true reflection of life, some of the recipes are more concerned with health than others. When we join with friends and family on holidays and special occasions, we sometimes don't count calories--we indulge. At other times we are more careful." Thus his menus range from meals equaling about 700 calories per person to others that add up to considerably more. Today's Gourmet doesn't pretend to be a dieter's cookbook, but it does provide cooks with a range of options that are both healthy and tasty.