When Marta Sgubin joined Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis's household in 1969, she thought her job as companion to John Jr. and Caroline Kennedy temporary. Twenty-five years later, she was still with the family, as cook, household manager, and friend to "Madam," who urged Sgubin to compile her repertoire of simple but elegant dishes. Sgubin's Cooking for Madam: Recipes and Reminiscences from the Home of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis presents nearly 100 of the family's favorite recipes plus dozens of never-published snapshots, most in color, of Mrs. Onassis, her family, and friends. Readers interested in an intimate glimpse of the Kennedy-Onassis household, as well as those seeking delicious, reliable dishes for everyday meals and for entertaining, will welcome Sgubin's book. The recipes, arranged by seasonal menus and preceded by Sgubin's recollections, run the gamut from Oeufs Toupinal, a simple egg, ham, and potato dish that was served to Hillary Rodham Clinton on a tray, to the dressier Veal Stuffed with Morel Mousse, a dish Mrs. Onassis preferred without the sweetbreads it originally called for. Included also are a hearty shepherd's pie, a favorite of Diana Vreeland; Caroline's much-loved Chocolate Roll; and Floating Island, a John Jr. pick. The company dishes are outweighed by the informal fare, and most cooks will have no trouble preparing either. Sgubin's book succeeds as both cookbook and insider's tribute, showing us a remarkable personality through the food she enjoyed and the people she loved. --Arthur Boehm